Because a motorcycle has two wheels in line and a high centre of gravity - it does not stand up by itself, and lifting it does not change that.

The loads are trivial for any lift, so capacity is rarely the limiting factor.

What matters is that the machine is inherently unstable in one direction and will fall if not restrained.

At working height it has further to fall and lands on the table edges, the floor and whatever is nearby.

The damage from a dropped bike is usually cosmetic and expensive rather than dangerous - though a falling machine can injure whoever is beside it.

So the equipment that matters is the chock and the straps, not the lifting mechanism.

It holds the front wheel upright and in line, which is what lets the machine be positioned and secured without a second person.

A chock or wheel vice clamps or cradles the front wheel so the bike stands unsupported.

That frees both hands to attach tie-down straps, which is otherwise a two-person job.

It also holds the steering straight, which keeps the machine's centre of gravity where the straps expect it.

Adjustable chocks accommodate different wheel diameters and tyre widths, and should be set for the machine rather than left at one setting.

It is not a substitute for tie-downs - the chock holds the wheel, the straps hold the machine.

To the frame or designated points, pulling downward and slightly forward, compressing the suspension a little so it cannot rock.

Attach straps to structural points, never to handlebar controls, brake lines, plastics or anything that can bend.

Pull down and slightly forward into the chock, so the machine is held against a positive stop.

Compress the front suspension slightly - a bike strapped with the forks fully extended can rock as the suspension moves.

Do not overtighten: fully bottoming the suspension for a long period stresses seals and the strap tension can damage the frame or bodywork.

Use straps in good condition with working ratchets or cam locks, and check them again once the lift is raised.

The machine loses the support the straps were using - so it must be independently supported from the frame or engine before the wheel is removed.

Removing the front wheel takes the machine out of the chock's support entirely.

Removing either wheel changes the balance and can let the machine pitch on the table.

Use a paddock stand, a jack under the frame or engine, or the lift's own support attachment before anything is undone.

Most lift tables have a removable centre section specifically to give wheel access, and it should be removed before the machine is unsupported.

Re-secure the machine before lowering the lift, since a partly dismantled bike is far less stable than a complete one.

Not always - ATVs are wider and heavier at the extremities, so platform width and restraint arrangements differ.

A motorcycle lift is narrow, with a chock at one end and a slot for wheel access.

An ATV or quad is stable on four wheels but wide, and needs a platform broad enough to support all four.

Capacity is usually adequate either way, but the loading pattern differs - an ATV puts weight at the corners rather than along a centre line.

Extension wings and ramps are available for many motorcycle lifts to convert them, and are the usual answer for a workshop handling both.

Check the platform dimensions and the manufacturer's stated suitability rather than assuming a lift rated for the weight will do.