Lining paper is a plain paper used on walls and ceilings before decorating. It is usually hung as an underlayer beneath wallpaper, paint, or decorative wall finishes. Its main job is to create a smooth, even surface.

It is used to cover small imperfections such as fine cracks, minor dents, patches, and uneven textures in plaster or drywall. By smoothing the surface, lining paper helps the final finish look better and last longer. It can also reduce the chance of old wall marks or colors showing through lighter wallpaper or paint.

Lining paper is often chosen when walls are in poor condition, when there are strong surface variations, or when a decorator wants a clean base for expensive wallpaper. In some cases, it is used to help wallpaper stick more evenly and to make future wallpaper removal easier, because the lining layer can protect the wall underneath.

There are different grades and thicknesses of lining paper. Thicker versions are better for rougher walls, while thinner ones suit smoother surfaces. It is typically pasted and hung like wallpaper, then allowed to dry before the final decoration is applied.

In short, lining paper is a preparation layer that improves the appearance, durability, and finish of wall decorations.

Choose the grade of lining paper based on how smooth, uneven, or damaged your walls are, and what finish you want on top.

Use 800 grade for lightly damaged or fairly smooth walls. It is the thinnest common option and is best if you only need to even out minor imperfections before painting.

Use 1000 grade for walls with moderate unevenness, small cracks, or patched areas. This is the most popular choice because it gives a good balance of strength, coverage, and smoothness.

Use 1200 grade for badly marked, rough, or slightly textured walls. It hides more flaws and creates a better base for paint or wallpaper, especially in older homes.

Use thicker grades only when needed, because very thick paper can be harder to hang neatly and may not be necessary on good walls.

Also consider the wall surface: If the wall is plasterboard or newly skimmed, a lighter grade may be enough. If the wall is old plaster, has many repairs, or previous wallpaper damage, go for a heavier grade. If you plan to paint over it, a heavier grade often gives the best finish.

A good rule is: the rougher the wall, the higher the grade. If you are unsure, 1000 grade is usually the safest all-round choice.

Yes. Lining paper can be painted over, and it is also commonly used under wallpaper.

If painted, lining paper gives a smoother, more even finish and helps hide minor cracks, patch marks, and surface imperfections. It is usually hung, allowed to dry fully, then painted with emulsion or other suitable wall paint. For best results, the paper should be properly pasted, smoothed, and sealed if needed before painting, so the finish is even and the joints do not show through.

Under wallpaper, lining paper is often used as a base layer to create a better surface for the top wallpaper. It helps walls that are uneven, porous, or in poor condition, and can improve adhesion and reduce the risk of the wallpaper showing flaws from the wall beneath. It is especially useful on old plaster, patched walls, or surfaces that have been previously decorated.

A few points matter: the lining paper should be dry before painting or wallpapering over it, and the thickness or grade should suit the wall condition. If the wall is very damaged, lining paper may improve appearance but will not fix serious structural issues. Also, some heavy wallpapers or specialist wallcoverings may need specific prep products instead.

So, in short: yes, lining paper can be painted and can also be used as an underlayer for wallpaper.

To hang lining paper correctly, start by preparing the wall. Make sure it is clean, dry, smooth, and free from loose paint or wallpaper. Fill cracks and holes, sand rough areas, and prime any bare plaster or patched spots.

Measure the wall and cut the lining paper slightly longer than the wall height. If the paper has a direction or texture, keep all strips hanging the same way. Mark a vertical plumb line with a spirit level about 50 cm from a corner or starting point so the first strip is perfectly straight.

If you are using paste-the-wall lining paper, apply the adhesive directly to the wall in one strip area at a time. For regular lining paper, paste the back of the paper evenly, fold it pasted side to pasted side, and let it soak for the recommended time.

Hang the first strip along your plumb line, leaving a small overlap at the ceiling and skirting for trimming. Smooth it down from the center outward using a wallpaper brush or plastic smoother to remove bubbles and wrinkles. Butt the next strip tightly against the first; do not overlap unless the product instructions say to.

Continue around the room, keeping joints neat and edges aligned. Around sockets, switches, windows, and doors, cut carefully and smooth the paper into place. Trim excess at the top and bottom with a sharp knife and straight edge.

Let the lining paper dry fully before painting, usually at least 24 hours. If gaps appear, use filler and lightly sand before decorating.

Yes, but only to a limited extent.

Lining paper can help disguise very small imperfections, like hairline cracks, minor scuffs, and slight unevenness in a wall surface. It gives the wall a smoother, more uniform finish and can reduce the appearance of patchy plaster, especially before painting.

However, it will not properly hide major cracks, deep dents, bulges, or badly uneven walls. In fact, if the wall has significant movement or structural cracking, the cracks may eventually show through again, and the lining paper itself may crack or bubble if the underlying issue is not fixed first.

For best results, the wall should be cleaned, filled, and sanded before applying lining paper. If the wall is very rough or damaged, a thicker grade of lining paper may help more than a thin one, but even then it is not a substitute for proper repair. Sometimes a wall needs plastering or skimming first to achieve a truly smooth finish.

So, in short: lining paper can hide minor cracks and small surface flaws, but it is not a cure for seriously uneven or damaged walls.

For damaged walls, the best thickness of lining paper is usually 1000 grade or 1200 grade. In general, the more damaged or uneven the wall, the thicker the lining paper should be.

800 grade is suitable for fairly smooth walls with only minor imperfections like small cracks or light surface marks. It helps create a better base for painting or wallpapering, but it will not hide major damage.

1000 grade is the most common choice for moderately damaged walls. It is thicker, stronger, and better at disguising small dents, hairline cracks, and patchy repairs. It also gives a more stable surface and is a good all-round option for most problem walls.

1200 grade is best for badly damaged walls or surfaces with lots of imperfections. It is the thickest and most durable standard lining paper, so it helps cover more visible flaws and provides a much better finish before decorating. If the wall is very rough, cracked, or uneven, this is usually the safest choice.

If the damage is severe, lining paper alone may not be enough. Loose plaster, deep cracks, or damp issues should be repaired first, or the paper may not hold properly.

So, in short: 1000 grade for moderately damaged walls, and 1200 grade for badly damaged walls. For the best finish, choose the thickest lining paper the wall can reasonably take.

Usually, yes — you should size or dilute adhesive on the wall before applying lining paper.

Sizing seals the surface, helps the paste soak in evenly, and gives you better grip and working time. This is especially important on new plaster, porous walls, patched areas, or any surface that would otherwise absorb paste too quickly. Without sizing, the lining paper can dry too fast, fail to bond properly, or show joints and bubbles later.

If the wall is already painted and in good condition, you may not always need a separate size coat, but a thinned paste coat is still strongly recommended. For new plaster, many decorators use a mist coat or a specific wall size first, then paste for the lining paper. For very absorbent surfaces, sizing may need to be done twice.

You should also make sure the wall is: clean dry smooth free from loose paint, dust, grease, and flaking material

If the wall is glossy or badly damaged, it may need sanding, filling, and priming first before sizing.

Best practice: read the lining paper and paste manufacturer’s instructions, because some products specify whether a size coat is required. In most cases, though, a properly sized wall gives a better finish and reduces the risk of lifting seams or peeling later.